{"id":166,"date":"2022-08-14T11:14:14","date_gmt":"2022-08-14T11:14:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/onboardwithme.com\/?p=166"},"modified":"2022-08-14T15:25:45","modified_gmt":"2022-08-14T15:25:45","slug":"surasta-bet-ar-tikrai-atrasta-keliaujam-po-juodkalnija","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/onboardwithme.com\/lt\/surasta-bet-ar-tikrai-atrasta-keliaujam-po-juodkalnija\/","title":{"rendered":"Surasta, bet ar tikrai atrasta? Keliaujam po Juodkalnij\u0105."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ma\u017eyt\u0117, prie Adrijos j\u016bros \u012fsitaisiusi Juodkalnija lyg ir \u017einoma daugumai lietuvi\u0173, ta\u010diau, ko gero, ma\u017eai, k\u0105 apie j\u0105 gal\u0117tume papasakoti. Kitaip nei jos kaimyn\u0117s (pvz Kroatija) Juodkalnija dar n\u0117ra patapusi keliautoj\u0173 Meka. Dar ne visos istorijos apie j\u0105 i\u0161 l\u016bp\u0173 \u012f l\u016bpas ar didel\u0117mis kelioni\u0173 antra\u0161t\u0117mis papasakotos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ir mano akys \u012f Juodkalnij\u0105 nukrypo po vienos atsitiktin\u0117s nuotraukos Pinterest platformoje. \u017di\u016br\u0117jau \u012f j\u0105 ir negal\u0117jau patik\u0117ti, kad tokia vieta man iki \u0161iol buvo ne\u017einoma, ir kad pati \u0161alis tokia nepa\u017einta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ir tai buvo nuosprendis \ud83d\ude42 Kraunam\u0117s daiktus ir keliaujam! Na gerai gerai prie\u0161 tai planuojam, skaitom, \u017ei\u016brim ir sulipdom kelion\u0117s plan\u0105 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Truputis istorijos<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Toki\u0105 Juodkalnij\u0105 kaip \u017eem\u0117lapyte matome dabar turime nuo 2006m., kada paskelbus referendum\u0105 nubalsuota atsiskirti nuo Serbijos ir kurti atskir\u0105 respublik\u0105. Ko gero tai vienintel\u0117 balkan\u0173 \u0161alis (pataisykite, jei klystu), kuri i\u0161 buvusios Jugoslavijos pabiro taikiai. Pa\u010dios Juodkalnijos istorija vingiuota ir ilga: sudaryta i\u0161 atskir\u0173 gen\u010di\u0173, v\u0117liau suvienyta, o b\u0117gant laikui visa ir atskiros dalys buvo veikiamos skirting\u0173 imperij\u0173 ar valstybi\u0173. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Net jei istorija nesidomite, bendr\u0105 vaizd\u0105 susidaryti b\u016btina, nes tai formavo Juodkalnijoje gyvenan\u010di\u0173 \u017emoni\u0173 po\u017ei\u016br\u012f, papro\u010dius, kult\u016br\u0105. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kaip mus tikino vienas gidas, dar ir \u0161iandien gentys rei\u0161kia daug.. Gentainis visada gali tik\u0117tis pagalbos ar net protekcijos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ir d\u0117l to \u0161i ma\u017ea \u0161alis (~600 000 gyventoj\u0173) tokia nenusp\u0117ja ir marga. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Turizmas \u0161alyje<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nors turist\u0173 srautai vis did\u0117ja (neskaitant Covid-19 laikotarpio), ta\u010diau kryptis vis dar praspr\u016bsta pro daugumos turist\u0173 akis ir labiau renkamasi kaip alternatyva. Ta\u010diau manau, greitai svarstykl\u0117s nukryps Juodkalnijos naudai mat \u0161alis turi visk\u0105 s\u0117kmingam turizmo vystymui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O dabar galima pasim\u0117gauti saikingais turist\u0173 srautais ir labai patraukliomis kainomis. Manau dabar yra puikus metas aplankyti \u0161i\u0105 \u0161al\u012f. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prie\u0161 keliaujant…<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nors \u0161alis n\u0117ra Europos s\u0105jungoje, ta\u010diau oficiali \u0161alies valiuta yra euras. \u012e \u0161al\u012f galima atvykti turint vien tik ID (pasas nereikalingas), nereikalingos ir vizos, ar kitokie paildomi dokumentai. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kol kas tiesiogini\u0173 skryd\u017ei\u0173 \u012f Juodkalnij\u0105 i\u0161 Lietuvos neturime, i\u0161skyrus u\u017esakomuosius Novaturo vykdomus skryd\u017eius. \u0160alyje veikia du orouostai: Podgoricos ir Tivato (\u010dia leid\u017eiasi Novaturo u\u017esakyti l\u0117ktuv\u0117liai). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Juodkalnij\u0105 galima pasiekti ma\u0161ina, ta\u010diau iki jos reik\u0117s nuva\u017eiuoti ~2000 kilometr\u0173. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Juodkalnijos keliai kontrastingi\u2026 Dalis, ypa\u010d jungiantys valstybes, yra gan geri, ta\u010diau dalis keli\u0173 – siauri serpantinai, reikalaujantys vairuotoj\u0173 \u012fg\u016bd\u017ei\u0173. Taigi, jei u\u017estrigote ant serpantino susitik\u0119 prie\u0161prie\u0161ais va\u017eiuojant\u012f kit\u0105 turist\u0105 ir nei\u0161manot, kaip i\u0161laviruoti- laukit vietinio. Jie mielai, tiesa da\u017enai kar\u0161tai, paai\u0161kins kaip i\u0161 situacijos i\u0161sisukti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pakel\u0117s atitvaras ant skard\u017eio. Reikia tik tik\u0117tis, kad jis buvo pramu\u0161tas krintan\u010di\u0173 akmen\u0173, o ne atsitenkusi\u0173 ma\u0161in\u0173. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ir visas kan\u010dias vairuojant (jei toki\u0173 bus) atpirks vaizdai pro langus\u2026 Apibendrinant: kuo prastesni keliai, tuo \u012fsp\u016bdingesni vaizdai ir ma\u017eiau turist\u0173.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O savait\u0117s u\u017eteks?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Juodkalnija – ma\u017ea \u0161alis, atrodo, kad ir daug laiko jai “i\u0161keliauti” nereik\u0117t\u0173, ta\u010diau viskas priklauso nuo nor\u0173 ir tiksl\u0173. Jei bandote derinti aktyv\u0173 keliavim\u0105 su poilsiu papl\u016bdimyje savait\u0117s ma\u017eoka, jei esant aktyvi\u0173 ar ekstremali\u0173 sporto \u0161ak\u0173 m\u0117g\u0117jas ir kartu norit pa\u017einti \u0161i\u0105 \u0161al\u012f v\u0117l savait\u0117s nepakaks \ud83d\ude42 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ir ra\u0161au tai i\u0161 savo asmenin\u0117s patirties. Mes band\u0117me suderinti visk\u0105: pasyv\u0173 ir aktyv\u0173 poils\u012f, susipa\u017einti su \u0161alies istorija ir kult\u016bra, u\u017esukti \u012f lankytinas vietas. Savait\u0117s mum nepakako. Turb\u016bt optimali kelion\u0117s trukm\u0117 tur\u0117t\u0173 b\u016bti 10d, bet neabejoju bus k\u0105 veikti ir 14d. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ir k\u0105 valgyti?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jei j\u016bs, kaip ir a\u0161, m\u0117gstate su \u0161alimi pa\u017eindintis ir i\u0161ragaudami j\u0173 patiekalus, grei\u010diausiai Juodkalnija jums patiks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maistas \u010dia skanus arba labai skanus \ud83d\ude42 Pasirinkimas i\u0161 ties\u0173 gausus: \u017euvis, j\u016bros g\u0117ryb\u0117s, m\u0117sos patiekalai, dar\u017eov\u0117s, vaisiai – visi ras sau tinkam\u0173 variant\u0173.. Kadangi did\u017ei\u0105j\u0105 dal\u012f Juodkalnijos dengia kalnai, \u0161alis ma\u017eai augina. Pagrindiniai jos pasidid\u017eiavimai kumpis (kuris gali b\u016bti r\u016bkomas iki 10m), s\u016bris, vynas. Taip pat gaminamas alus, rak\u0117. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kita gan i\u0161skirtin\u0117 sritis tai austri\u0173 ir midij\u0173 auginimas (straipsnis rengiamas). Unikali patirtis, kuri\u0105 si\u016blau i\u0161bandyti: https:\/\/www.airbnb.com\/experiences\/898960?location=Montenegro&currentTab=experience_tab&federatedSearchId=3ec120d1-df9b-4cee-95bb-e1ea92a3fae0&searchId=&sectionId=8025b9ba-4509-402b-89be-5053e6f82594&source=p2<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Katilas midij\u0173 ruo\u0161iam\u0173 lauko virtuv\u0117l\u0117je<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ko negalima praleisti keliaujant Juodkalnijoje?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kotor<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Lipant fortais ativeriantis Kotor \u012flankos ir miesto gro\u017eis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u012elankoje apsuptas kaln\u0173 ir skalaujamas krik\u0161tolo skaidrumo m\u0117lyn\u0173 Adrijos j\u016bros bang\u0173 st\u016bgso Kotor miestas. Gr\u012fstos ir siauros gatvel\u0117s, kuriose jus klaid\u017eiojan\u010dius \u0161eimininki\u0161ku \u017evilgsniu nu\u017ei\u016br\u0117s vietinis katinas, o pris\u0117dus u\u017ekasti gal net ateis atsiimti savo duokl\u0117s. Ir i\u0161 ties katinai \u010dia mylimi, gerbiami ir gyvena \u0161alia \u017emoni\u0173 ne kaip augintiniai, o beveik kaip lygiaver\u010diai miesto \u0161eimininkai. Ir kiekvienas juodkalnietis jums papasakos istorij\u0105 kaip Kotor’\u0105 nuo peli\u0173 ir \u017eiurki\u0173 (su kuriomis dar gal ir b\u016bt\u0173 galima susigyventi, ta\u010diau ne su j\u0173 platinamomis ligomis) i\u0161gelb\u0117jo kat\u0117s.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u0160eimininki\u0161kas Kotor’o katinas, pasitin kantis ryt\u0105 ant fortuose \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kotoras savu laiku buvo svarbus prekybinis miestas, d\u0117l to jam apsaugoti buvo prad\u0117ti statyti \u012ftvirtinimai, o miestui ir jo \u012ftakai did\u0117jant \u0161ie \u012ftvirtinimai augo. \u0160iuo metu tai viena populiariausi\u0173 turist\u0173 lankytin\u0173 viet\u0173, mat nuo j\u0173, vis kylant \u012f vir\u0161\u0173 atsiveria Kotor’o, o palipus auk\u0161\u010diau ir visos \u012flankos vaizdai. \u0160iuo metu \u012f\u0117jimas \u012f fortus jau yra mokamas\u2026 na i\u0161skyrus, jei at\u0117jot labai anksti, tokiu atveju galima prasmukti be mokes\u010dio. Rinktis ankstyvas valandas vasaros m\u0117nesiai rekomenduojama dar ir d\u0117l kar\u0161\u010dio. Liepos m\u0117nes\u012f temperat\u016bra da\u017enai kyla iki 36o<\/sup>C, taigi daugiau nei 1000 laipteli\u0173 \u017eygis kalnu \u012f vir\u0161\u0173 gali b\u016bti sunkiai \u012fveikiamas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Daugiau kaip 1000 laipteli\u0173 teks u\u017elipti, kad \u012fveiktum\u0117te fortus, ta\u010diau vaizdai atperka visas pastangas. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kotor’e apsistoja nema\u017ea dalis turist\u0173, ta\u010diau ie\u0161kantiems papl\u016bdini\u0173 ilgiau u\u017esib\u016bti nerekomenduoju, \u010dia j\u0173 tiesiog n\u0117ra. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Budva<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Vis tik did\u017eioji dalis turist\u0173 renkasi \u0161\u012f miest\u0105. Jis taip pat ir naktinio gyvenimo centras. Nedidelis Budvos senamiestis su savo simpati\u0161komis vingiuotomis, siauromis gatvel\u0117mis, apsuptas gynybine siena, o nuo jos \u012f abi puses nusit\u0119sia papl\u016bdimiai (bei \u012fsiterpia prieplauka). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u010cerpi\u0173 stogai, siauros, grystos gatvel\u0117s ir i\u0161kilusi varpin\u0117… Taip, tai Budva. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Turb\u016bt viena i\u0161 patogiausi\u0173 viet\u0173 apsistoti norit pasim\u0117gauti visais kelion\u0117s malonumais: papl\u016bdimiu bei j\u016bra, skaniu maistu, aktyviu naktiniu gyvenimu, ekskursijomis po Juodkalnij\u0105. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kiti paj\u016brio miesteliai<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nedidelis, ta\u010diau prabangus… Tokios mintys sukasi apsilankius miniati\u016briniame Tivat miestelyje. D\u0117l labai palankios politikos (ar mokes\u010di\u0173) \u010dia \u0161varkuojasi prabangios jachtos, tod\u0117l firmini\u0173 parduotuvi\u0173 bei prabangi\u0173 restoran\u0117li\u0173 \u010dia netr\u016bksta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na ir visi ver\u017eiasi pamatyti \u017eym\u0173j\u012f Sveti Stefan… Kaip pasakoje legenda miestelis saloje buvo \u012fkurtas po to kai vietiniai gyventojai netoliese esan\u010diame papl\u016bdimyje pasteb\u0117jo pirat\u0173 laiv\u0105, pasinaudodami galimyb\u0119 jie apipl\u0117s\u0117 piratus, o i\u0161 turt\u0173 \u012fk\u016br\u0117 miestel\u012f saloje apsupt\u0105 gynybini\u0173 fort\u0173. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Paskutiniu metu visa sala buvo paversta prabangiu vie\u0161bu\u010diu. Teigiama, kad \u010dia atostogas leisdavo daug holivudo \u017evaig\u017ed\u017ei\u0173, m\u0117gaudamiesi \u012fsp\u016bdingu vaizdu ir… visi\u0161ku privatumu. Ta\u010diau \u0161iuo metu vie\u0161butis neveikia ir visos Sveti Stefan langin\u0117s u\u017edarin\u0117tos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sveti Stefin vakare, saulei nusileidus. Vis tik langin\u0117s i\u0161lieka u\u017evertos, nes vie\u0161butis \u010dia veikias kur\u012f laik\u0105 ir priimdaves garsius sve\u010dius nesutaria su valstybe d\u0117l mokes\u010di\u0173. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tara up\u0117 ir jos kanjonas<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tara up\u0117s kanjonas yra giliausias Europoje ir antras pagal gyl\u012f pasaulyje (po Did\u017eiojo kanjono JAV). O pati up\u0117 g\u0117lavanden\u0117, maitinama \u0161altini\u0173 d\u0117l to vanduo \u0161altas ir kas svarbiasi tyras, ir \u0161varus. Tara up\u0117s regionas dar 1980m. \u012ftrauktas \u012f Pasaulio paveldo s\u0105ra\u0161\u0105, o up\u0117 nuo 1977m. saugoma tarptautini\u0173 konvencij\u0173, kaip pasaulio ekologin\u0117s biosferos rezervatas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tara up\u0117 ir jos tarpeklis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kar\u0161tomis dienomis i\u0161ties gera panirti \u012f \u0161alt\u0105 Taros vanden\u012f \ud83d\ude42 Bet dar smagiau i\u0161bandyti plaukim\u0105 plaustais (rafting) up\u0117s slenks\u010diais.. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nuotykiams pasiruo\u0161\u0119 \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

M\u0117lynieji urvai<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u012esivaizduokite kar\u0161t\u0105 vasaros dien\u0105, skaidr\u0173 krik\u0161toli\u0161kai m\u0117lyn\u0105 j\u016bros vanden\u012f… \u012esivaizduokit kaip \u012fplaukiat \u012f uoloje esant\u012f urv\u0105, o ant jo sien\u0173 \u017eai\u017earuoja saul\u0117s zuiku\u010diai atsimu\u0161\u0119 nuo vandens… vanduo, i\u0161 kurio nesinori i\u0161lipti ir visa tai Europoje, taip pat toli nuo m\u016bs\u0173!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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D\u0117l skaidraus vandens galima skai\u010diuoti amnenukus dugne \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Urvai pasiekiami laivais, o j\u0173 pasirinkimas didelis: vieni si\u016blo ekskursines programas, kiti nuomoja tik greit\u0105j\u012f kater\u012f plaukti iki urv\u0173. Bet kokiu atveju \u012fsp\u016bd\u017eiai garantuoti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Njego\u0161 mauzoliejus <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jei vykstate su gidu, jis jums tikrai papasakos koks svarbus juodkalnie\u010diams buvo ir yra Njego\u0161. Jis laikomas svarbiausiu juodkalnie\u010diu, did\u017eiu valdovu, nepakartojamu poetu. Taigi antroje pagal auk\u0161t\u012f vir\u0161ukaln\u0117je Juodkalnijoje yra Njego\u0161 mauzoliejus. Vis tik jei istorija j\u016bs\u0173 nedomina, atvykit \u010dia d\u0117l vaizd\u0173. 461 laiptelis iki mauzoliejaus padovanoja 70proc visos Juodkalnijos vaizd\u0105 (su s\u0105lyga, kad i\u0161sirinkot giedr\u0105 dien\u0105).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pakeliui \u012f mauzoliej\u0173… Lipant laipteliais galima sustoti ni\u0161ose, i\u0161 kuri\u0173 atsiveria paveiksliuko verti vaizdai. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Crnojevi\u0107 up\u0117 ir Skadar e\u017eeras<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ikoni\u0161kas vaizdas kaip Crnojevi\u0107 up\u0117 daro lanks\u0105 apie kaln\u0105, randamas pakeliui va\u017eiuojant prie Skadar e\u017eero. V\u0117l neju\u010dia pagauni save stebintis, kad toki\u0105 viet\u0105 randi Europoje. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Taip taip, tai Europa \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Skadar e\u017eeras did\u017eiausias e\u017eeras balkanuose. Juodkalnija j\u012f dalijasi su Albanija. E\u017eeras ir aplinkin\u0117s teritorijos priklauso nacionaliniam parkui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Atrodo, kad \u0161i vieta turist\u0173 dar labai ma\u017eai atrasta, nors populiari tarp ornitolog\u0173, sutinkame tik kelet\u0105 vietini\u0173 besim\u0117gaujan\u010di\u0173 vandens gaiva. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tik numanau, koks nepakartojamas vaizdas tur\u0117t\u0173 b\u016bti plaukiojant Skadar e\u017eere, kai \u017eydi vandens lelijos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deja, bet nesp\u0117jome<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mes nesp\u0117jom, bet manau, kad verta:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

  1. Kaln\u0173 \u017eygis Durmitor nacionaliniame parke<\/li>
  2. Aplankyti Juod\u0105j\u012f e\u017eer\u0105 ir vietoves aplink j\u012f<\/li>
  3. Ap\u017ei\u016br\u0117ti Ostrog vienuolyn\u0105<\/li>
  4. Pasivaik\u0161\u010dioti Perast miestelyje<\/li><\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Ma\u017eyt\u0117, prie Adrijos j\u016bros \u012fsitaisiusi Juodkalnija lyg ir \u017einoma daugumai lietuvi\u0173, ta\u010diau, ko gero, ma\u017eai, k\u0105 apie j\u0105 gal\u0117tume papasakoti. Kitaip nei jos kaimyn\u0117s (pvz … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":174,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[18,17,16,7],"class_list":["post-166","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kelioniu-kryptys","tag-apie-sali","tag-juodkalnija","tag-keliones","tag-keliones-planas","has-meta"],"yoast_head":"\nSurasta, bet ar tikrai atrasta? 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